Hatton Garden is for diamonds, Brick Lane is for curries and now there’s a little patch of Soho that’s all about puddings. Roll down Wardour Street at almost any waking hour and you’ll find exquisite chocolates from Paul A. Young, creamy gelato from Snowflake, American-style frosted cupcakes from the Hummingbird Bakery and jumbo-sized doughnuts in a galaxy of heart-stopping flavours from Crosstown Doughnuts. Those looking to impress can lead lovers down a creaking staircase to Basement Sate, Broadwick Street’s late-night cocktail and pudding bar, and anyone feeling particularly virtuous can plump for Yorica, London’s first vegan ice cream parlour.
But there’s always room for one more, right?
Cutter & Squidge is a new eat-in bakery whose claim to fame is the invention of the ‘biskie’, a cookie/cake hybrid that closely resembles a macaron on Spring Break. If you grew up around dogs, you must ignore the fact that a ‘biskie’ has always been a vital tool in separating Rover from your slippers, PE kit or whatever else the lovable rogue has run off into the back garden with. You’re in Soho now, darling, and a biskie is no longer a Frolix Gravy Bone but a mutant pastry you’d crawl over your own grandmother to pay £3.50 for. Welcome to London.
I actually went to Cutter & Squidge to have a whirl at assembling my own biskie, which sandwiches special recipe ‘lighter’ buttercream between two wedges of unidentifiable sweet stuff – light like a cake but chewy like a cookie.
Now, regular readers will know I don’t have the sweetest of teeth, but the sisters behind C&S, who first sold their creations at farmers’ markets and then earned their pudding pedigree in Selfridges’ food hall, have done a good job of using “just as much sugar as needed to make something delicious”. I.e. it’s definitely not good for you, but you won’t throw up on the tube on the way home. For me, a couple of the miniatures biskies were the perfect indulgent dessert.
Cutter and Squidge are also known for their cakes, which frankly make the people at, say, Patisserie Valerie, look like a ragtag bunch of bumbling amateurs. I usually buy special occasion cakes from PV and they always go down well, but C&S’s so-called ‘Dream Cakes’ are on another level, featuring five layers of sponge interlaced with fresh buttercreams and homemade jams.
Inspired by the beautiful creations in the windows, we set about decorating our own Dream Cakes.
Sadly, my cake-designing creativity was about as forthcoming as my mouse-stuffing ability and the end result looked like I’d themed it on Game of Thrones‘ famous ‘Red Wedding’ scene.
Though, to be fair, it got utterly savaged when I took it into work the next day, so I guess it’s what’s inside that counts. The cakes are pretty expensive – from £32.50 for a small size, which serves around eight – but they’re perfect for top-tier relatives and Level 10 BFFs.
After first discovering C&S, I’ve found it’s is a great place to stop after dinner in Soho for a coffee and a cake, especially as it’s open until 9pm on Thursdays and Saturdays, and 10pm on Fridays. It also does its own take on afternoon tea (£24.50), which includes a sugary smorgaboard of cakes, biskies and other sweet treats, plus a few savoury bits to stop your teeth from itching too much. Either way, it’s worth popping in just to cross London’s latest weird hybrid cake thing off your bucket list.
20 Brewer St, London, W1F 0SJ
Author: Emily Gibson
Emily is an urban adventurer, blogger and
glutton foodie on an epic quest to uncover the best things to eat, drink and do in London. She lives in Islington and loves ceviche, cycling and magic shows. Lifelong nemeses include beetroot, beards and wine served in tumblers.