Ultra-fusion at Osh, Knightsbridge
The only thing I know about Uzbek cuisine is that the last restaurant that tried it in London failed miserably and closed within six months.
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Chinese New Year at Yauatcha
Happy Chinese New Year! So begins the Year of the Dog, which apparently is amicable and kind, cautious and prudent. I’d be quite interested to know how the Dog ended up being the emblem of caution and prudence since all the ones I know will joyfully launch themselves into a freezing bog or gorge themselves […]
The vegan menu at Gillray’s steakhouse is worth missing meat for
After a disastrous evening out at Fed By Water, a really shit vegan pizzeria, I was reluctant to go out and spend my money on any more animal-free food.
Padella: believe the hype
I am so, so late to the Padella party, it was almost barely worth me turning up.
The Cambridge Street Kitchen is the jewel in Victoria’s crown
There’s a common phenomenon in London wherein you find yourself in a restaurant’s facilities and think, ‘Ah. I’ve peed here before.’ I call it déjà loo.
It’s pretty up the pickle at Searcys
The food is a little hit and miss and the champagne is extortionate, but lunch at Searcys at the Gherkin is something special.
A secret in Southwark: sunshine food at Lupins
A review of Lupins, London Bridge, or, ‘How I Learned To Stop Thinking Of Spring Onions As Garnish & Realised Their True Potential With A Deep Fat Fryer’.
Flurries of flavour at Foley’s, Fitzrovia
A client once told me in a Paris bar that if you order an Old Fashioned, you’ll always have the respect of the barman. “Sod the barman,” I said, inwardly, because they were a client after all. “If I’m paying a tenner for a drink it’s going to be something I actually like.”
Basement beats, bubbles and brunch at Hanger SW6
Once upon a time steak was the thing you ordered on your birthday and/or when someone else was paying, because a big hunk ‘o beef was – and still is, in many places – the most expensive thing on the menu.
Fine dining on a shoestring: Ormer with Bookatable
I’ll eat my socks if Ormer Mayfair doesn’t win a Michelin star this year. The sister restaurant to Shaun Rankin’s highly-decorated original in Jersey launched only nine months ago, but it’s enjoyed runaway popularity with almost everyone, from professional critics to armchair foodies.
